Clonmacnoise

(Warning!!  This next post has many pictures of old rocks/stonework.  If you are allergic please don't read any further!)



Rock wall plus another rock wall near Clonmacnoise



The next morning I drove probably 30 miles which took about an hour but felt like two.  The roads are narrow, serpentine and bordered on both sides by rock walls.  There is no where to go and people drive fast!  I was pleased to find that they drive courteously also.  If you are in front and someone behind wants to pass you pull over when you can.  They on the other hand patiently wait until that time - or at least the ones behind me did.

I was headed to Clonmacnoise in Co. Offaly.  It was an important destination for me as it fit my criteria of close to Portumna and old.  I also found it fitting as it was/is a pilgrimage site and I felt Ireland was a bit of a pilgrimage for me.  A pilgrimage can be defined as a journey of moral or spiritual significance.  This trip had that for me and as this site was located on the Shannon River it was perfect.

 I was greeted by a pilgrim as I first arrived:

Clonmacnoise was founded in about 548 AD (548!!) by St. Ciaran.  He positioned it perfectly at the central crossroads in Ireland - on the Shannon waterway running N/S and the main Irish road running E/W.  The positioning was a good thing in that it allowed the monastery to become quite properous and large - more of a village than monastery.  But the fact that it was prosperous and at major crossroads opened it up for a lot of raiding and pillaging.  It seemed to be a grand pastime for many as Clonmacnoise was raided repeatedly over the years by the Irish, English and Vikings.

But it is beautiful!  Here are some of the pics.

The Round Tower 1124 AD.  It is hard to tell how high it is in the picture but it goes way up.  Also that first opening at the bottom is about 80 ft off the ground - that is the only way in.



Detail from the Cross of the Scriptures.



Cross of the Scriptures.  One of the finest of the High Crosses in Ireland. 900 AD



Temple Melaghlin AD 1200



The Cathedral - constructed in 909 AD



This is "The Castle".  It has been a ruin since about 1300.



I enjoyed it all and wandered for hours.  I could look as long as I wanted!  No need to hurry...



Temple Ciaran ca. 900 AD



Then I came to Temple Ciaran where he is reputed to be buried.  There are about 6 churches at Clonmacnoise and this is the smallest.  They say his hand was kept here as a religious relic into the 1800's.  I would love to see a religious relic.  Sadly, it isn't there any longer - I checked and checked a few more times...

It is here, at Temple Ciaran, that the pilgrim's path begins (or ends).  I walked it - each stone very carefully and with intention.  I loved putting my feet where those for thousands of years have as well.  I love being connected that way.  I considered attempting the path on my knees but as I was wearing my Lucky's ...let's just say there is only so much I am willing to sacrifice for enlightenment <grin>.  The gate at the back leads to a footpath which leads to the Nun's Chapel.

Footpath to Nun's Chapel

My favorite thing  is footpaths.  They are like little enchanted adventures beckoning.  It is even better when they have little stairs that help you over the fences.  This was the first one I saw that was made of stone - it was usually wood.  You walk up one side and down another!  How very helpful!  Everytime I saw one I couldn't help but take a picture.  If I ever write a book it will probably be about footpath stair thingys (The Coffee Table Book of Footpath Stair Thingys.  I bet they have a real name.) Anyway, the pilgrim's path led to a footpath which led to my favorite, favorite spot.  The Nun's Chapel. 

Nun's Chapel

Although Clonmacnoise was not too crowded there were just enough people to make me aware.  But here, here I was utterly alone.  Completely, blissfully alone and it was here that it finally sank in where I was and how happy I was to be here.  I then took this picture. 

These are all little dragons holding a bar in
their mouths.

I stayed forever.  I marveled at the detailed carvings in the stone, at the fact that this lovely structure was in someone's backyard, the peace.  I tried to imagine all the people who might have found joy and solace here.  The tremors of history felt so strong. 

I loved his face!  I wonder if this is a self-portrait or maybe of a family member. 
There were many faces but his was the best!

Monk? Priest? Father? Brother? Farmer? King?



Detail of the dragon



And all of this was along the Shannon River but with no access.  I kept saying hi and she kept saying hi back.  I told her I would find a way to get closer - she said she could wait.